츠타야 도키노야도 카자리

A hidden gem that surpassed my expectations. I came to the Kiso Valley hoping to hike part of the Nakasendo Trail and get a little pampered for all the trekking! Maybe I'm just a rookie at staying at a ryokan but did I truly luck out with this 4 Star + establishment. If you are arriving at the train station, please arrange to coordinate with the Kazari's shuttle service or take a taxi. Do not do what I did and take the local bus with your luggage because there is an uphill walk and I did it in the rain. While I did not stay in a room with a private onsen, I could only imagine what that experience would be like. Nevertheless, I did stay in a Japanese style room and used the "public" onsen which was empty both times I arrived, so I went from bath to bath and enjoyed the change in temperature of each one. - espeically the outdoor ones. There are simple courtesies to follow so be prepared to just flow. I've stayed in NYC and LA for 3x this experience in US dollars and there is simply no comparison between the ambiance, the service, and good gracious... the Michelin level food. The staff was lovely and so gracious. Practice some simple Japanese phrases, be polite and respectful and you'll feel like a pro. Try the sake and wine pairing for your special kaiseki dinner which was such a great call by my young host. You will have assigned seating either at the bar area or tables. I loved watching them prepare the meal up close and how precisely everything was arranged. There is a horse farm nearby where you can observe a special Japanese breed of horses integral to the history of the Kiso Valley and Japan. And the view of Mount Ontake? The 2nd highest in Japan that was snow covered in spring was magnificent. Avoid the crowds further and do the Torri Pass from Yabuhara to Narai instead of Tomago but be prepared to exert yourself. The towns are easily accessible from the train station in Kiso and you can request a shuttle from the inn. Don't forget to bring enough water because this part of the Nakasendo is almost a 3000 elevation hike but breathtakingly worth it! Come back to the inn, shower and soak in the outdoor hot spring and just reflect on what a beautiful experience you signed up for by coming to Tsutaya Tokinoyado Kazari. This was a stay to remember for a long time.